Archive for November, 2011

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Guide to Buying For New Or Used John Deere Tractor


2011
11.12

Tractors are essential farm machinery that helps in the preparation of land for planting and even digging. It is therefore important to look for a well condition tractor for this purpose. John Deere tractors are among the leading tractors available worldwide. When buying a John Deere tractor, there are some factors you have to put in mind. It is important to look for a tractor that has all the features you require depending on the period you plan to cultivate. Below are some of the guidelines you should put in mind when buying a John Deere tractor.

Cabs

If you plan to use your John Deere tractor during raining season, you must look for one that has a cab. The cab will help you not to be rained on and also it reduces noise as a result of heavy downpour. You will also plan on the amount of warmth you want.

Purpose of the John Deere tractor

Some John Deere tractors have more power than the others. This depends on the nature of the work you are doing. You may choose from tractors that are used for light purposes to those used for heavy duties. Different models of John Deere tractors have different features depending on the size of the tractor. Therefore look for a tractor that has the features you require.

Size of the land

The bigger the size of land you are working on, the bigger the tractor. Choose a tractor that works effectively on the amount of work you have. Bigger tractors are known to provide more power and hence should be used on large portions of land. Smaller ones can be used to do lighter works that does not require more power.

Cost of the tractor

All models of John Deere tractors have different prices. The amount of money you have will determine the model of tractor you buy. High powered tractors are known to be expensive since their performance also is high. Get to know each models price and compare its price to the power it has.

Condition of the tractor

Used John Deere tractors can be expensive to maintain since the spare parts are hard to get. Look for a tractor that is in good condition and cheap to maintain. Check in the engine to ensure that it’s worthy in the farm and can perform the work you have. The body of the tractor should be good and all other features should be functional.

Buying terms

This shows whether the John Deere you are buying is in cash terms, credit or hire purchase. Make sure you understand the terms of payment to check if you are comfortable with it. Do not rush to buying a tractor before reading the terms of sales. Check on the manual of the tractor you are interested in to make sure you understand its general performance. In addition you should know the model of the John Deere tractor you want to buy. There are several models depending on the purpose of the tractor; therefore model should be put into consideration when buying.

Robert Tate – Region Sales Manager of Mascus UK. Mascus is an electronic marketplace for new tractors, used John Deere tractors. Mascus makes trading in used machines and trucks quicker and more efficient by collecting all information about supply and demand in one place. All dealers, producers and end users are welcome to offer their used machines and trucks for sale via the marketplace.

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High-Quality Inexpensive Hiking Boots – How To Choose And Where To Find Them


2011
11.11

This article describes where to look, what to look for, and how to choose day-hiking boots. Knowing where to look and what to look for, you can be sure to get the high-quality hiking boots you need without paying extra for features you don’t need.

Day-hiking boots range anywhere from $40.00 to $150.00. The high end of that range is beginning to cross into backpacking boots, but anything below that range is either an exceptionally good deal or an imitation hiking boot that will disappoint you badly.

So, let’s talk about the kinds of places to shop for hiking boots, features to look for, pitfalls to avoid, and techniques to make sure you have the right fit.

Where to Shop for Hiking Boots

If you have never done any serious hiking, you will want to buy your first serious hiking boots in a hands-on experience. I’m being honest here (habit of mine). Yes, it is in my interest to persuade you to buy your hiking boots through my Web site, but I won’t do that if it is not appropriate for you. Even aside from ethical considerations, it would be bad business for me to create a lot of dissatisfied customers telling their friends about their bad experience. No, I’m just being honest. I don’t want to take your money and leave you unhappy. Buy your first pair of hiking boots at a brick-and-mortar store where you can handle the boots and try them for proper fit. Then, when you have enough experience to know what you want in your second pair of hiking boots (or third, or …), you can take advantage of the lower prices available on the Web.

When shopping for hiking boots, look for an outdoor equipment store rather than a shoe store. The sales clerks in a general shoe store are not likely to know the difference between real hiking boots and fashion imitations of hiking boots. You might pay more money at an outdoor equipment store, but you will realize the savings out on the trail.

Once you’re in the store, ask about some of the things you read in this article. If the sales clerk doesn’t know what a scree collar is or why soft outer soles are better than hard, look for another sales clerk, or another store.

If you are ready to buy your hiking boots on the Web, you can take advantage of the best of both worlds. You can buy from a high-volume store that has the best prices, but first get your advice, recommendations, and reviews from affiliated Web sites that specialize in hiking equipment.

Wherever you choose to buy your hiking boots, make sure there is a reliable, knowledgeable person in the loop somewhere. If the sales clerk or Web site seems too eager about making the sale and not interested enough in discussing and comparing features, you should look somewhere else before you make a final decision.

Especially when you are shopping the Web sites, you may need to pay attention to brands. Certain brands have a well-deserved reputation for good quality, and you should not ignore that. On the other hand, some brands have an overblown reputation that often has more to do with fashion than with genuine quality. The only way to know the difference, and to find the quality you need without paying for fashion that you don’t care about, is to talk to those who know the difference and to read reviews from people who have actually used the hiking boots in the field.

Features to Look For in Day-Hiking Boots

Here is what you need to look for:

* Deep tread in a soft sole for traction.

* Appropriate height (just above the ankle).

* Soft, wide, thick scree collar (the padding around the top that keeps pebbles out without chafing your Achilles tendon).

* Fiberglass shank. Steel is okay, but fiberglass is better in day-hiking boots because it’s lighter. Full-length is preferred, but shorter shanks may be acceptable if you are planning more moderate hiking.

* Tongue attached at least up to the top of the foot, or higher if you plan on crossing streams frequently.

* Crampon attachments (good, but not essential, unless you do a lot of hiking in icy conditions).

* Hooks for the laces above the top of the foot.

* Choose eyelets, D-rings, or webbing for the lower lace attachment points as a matter of personal taste. My experience does not indicate any one to be better than the others for day-hiking boots.

* Good insulation and padding all around, firm on the bottom, with a tough but smooth lining.

* Double stitching on all visible seams.

* More leather and less fabric is better. Split leather is fine (and you’ll almost never find full-grain leather in a day-hiking boot), but not full suede.

* Fewer seams is better.

Most of these features are self-evident, but here are a few techniques for evaluating specific features.

* Tread should be at least two fifths of the total thickness of the sole.

* Measure the softness of the tread surface by pressing your thumbnail into it. You should be able to make a visible indentation that springs out in a second or so.

* Measure the stiffness of the shank by holding the heel in one hand and the toe in the other, and twisting the sole. You should not be able to twist it at all.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid in Hiking Boots

The biggest problem you’re likely to find in shopping for day-hiking boots is cheaply-made “imitation” hiking boots. They look like hiking boots, but they’re not built to stand up to trail conditions. They will not last long, and they will not give you the traction and water resistance you need.

You can tell an “imitation” hiking boot from the real thing by these characteristics:

* Mild tread, less than about two-fifths the thickness of the sole.

* Hard tread surface that you can barely indent with your fingernail.

* Non-attached tongue.

* Non-rigid sole that you can twist by hand.

* No scree collar. There may be patches of leather or a different color of fabric that look like a scree collar, but if it doesn’t have thick, soft padding around the top, it’s not a real hiking boot. It won’t keep the pebbles out, and it might chafe or constrict your Achilles tendon.

Fitting your Hiking Boots

You must fit your hiking boots with any orthopedic inserts, off-the-shelf insoles, and the hiking socks you intend to wear with them. A good rule of thumb is to start with one full size larger than your regular street shoes.

With all the inserts and insoles in place and your hiking socks on, but with no laces in the boot, put the boot on and push your foot all the way forward until your toes touch the front. You should have just enough room behind the heel to slide your finger all the way in.

Next, lace the boot up snugly and walk around. The boots will be stiff and uncomfortable because they’re not broken in, but they should not allow your foot to slide or rub.

Stand on a steep slope with your toes pointing down. (Use the fitting horse where you’re supposed to put your foot to lace the shoe while sitting. Go ahead and stand on it.) You should be able to wiggle your toes, and they should not touch the front of the boots.

If you bought the boots via the Web, do this fit-test as soon as you get them. Even if you think you know your size, boots from different manufacturers might fit differently. Check the size and fit immediately, and return them for a replacement if they don’t fit right.

Conclusion

If you are looking for your first pair of serious hiking boots, you must do your shopping in an outdoor equipment store where you can handle the boots and talk to knowledgeable sales staff. Only if you have some experience with day-hiking boots, take advantage of the bargains available on the Web.

Check for the features that identify a quality hiking boot, and avoid “fake” hiking boots.

Bring all the inserts and socks you will wear with your hiking boots, and check for a firm but comfortable fit with no rubbing or sliding.

Look for quality, and expect to pay for it, but don’t pay more than you have to for features that don’t contribute to the durability and comfort of your hiking boots.

Chuck Bonner is a lifelong hiker and amateur naturalist, and webmaster of http://www.HikingWithChuck.com For more information about hiking boots and other hiking equipment based on many years on the trail, visit [http://www.hikingwithchuck.com/Gear/HikingGear.htm]

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How the Right To an Education Destroys Our Children’s Education


2011
11.09

One of the most common arguments that school authorities use to justify public schools is that all children have a “right” to an education. Public-school apologists claim that all children have a right to an education, and that only the existence of a massive, compulsory, government-controlled public-school system can “guarantee” that right.

As I will explain below, the claim that all children have a right to an education ends up hurting the very children it was intended to help. I will therefore ask a seemingly shocking question — do all children have a right to an education? If they do, public-school apologists are correct in assuming that we need government to guarantee that right so no child gets left behind.

What is an economic “right” such as the alleged right to an education? A “right” means that a person has a claim on the rest of society (other Americans) to give him some product or service he wants, regardless of whether he can pay for it or not. For example, if we claimed that everyone has a right to a car, that would mean if someone couldn’t afford a car, government would give that person the money to buy it (the payment might be called a car voucher).

Similarly, if we say that all children have a right to an education, regardless of their parent’s ability to pay tuition, then only government can guarantee this alleged right. Government has to guarantee this right because no private, for-profit school will admit a student if the parents don’t pay tuition (unless the student gets a scholarship). If a private school doesn’t get paid for its services, it soon goes out of business.

Local or state governments can guarantee this alleged right in two basic ways. They can own and operate all the public schools and force all children to attend these schools, or they can give subsidies (vouchers) to parents to pay for tuition in the private school of their choice. Since most school authorities strongly oppose vouchers, that means they support only a government-controlled system of compulsory public schools and school taxes to guarantee children this alleged right to an education.

But government produces nothing by itself. Government gets its money by taxing us. To guarantee this alleged right to a product or service, government tax collectors must therefore take money from one person to give it to another. They must take from Peter to pay Paul, as the saying goes. So, in effect, a person who demands food, housing, or medical care as an alleged right, is really demanding that government tax agents steal money from his neighbor to give him an unearned benefit he didn’t work for.

Education, like housing or medical care, does not grow free in nature. Just as someone must pay doctors, nurses, and hospitals for all the services they provide, someone must also pay for teachers’ salaries, textbooks, janitorial services, and school upkeep. Other than air, nothing that we need is free.

The average public school now gets over $7,500 a year per student, paid from compulsory taxes. To guarantee education as a “right,” local, state, and federal governments must tax all Americans to pay for public schools. All of us are taxed, whether or not we have school-age children or think these schools are worth paying for. So when some parents claim that their children have a right to an education, they are really demanding that their local or state government steal money from their neighbors to pay for their children’s education.

Here’s an analogy that might help clarify this issue. Imagine that your unemployed neighbor comes to you and asks you to lend him money to pay for his children’s education. You reply that, though you sympathize with his problem, your answer is no. He responds by saying that he is poor, points out that you have a big house and a job, and insists that his children have a “right” to an education. You say, “Sorry, my answer is still no because I need my money for my own children’s education.” Suppose that your neighbor then gets real mad, pulls out a gun, puts it to your head, and says, “I asked you nicely. I told you my children need an education. You have a job, and I’m unemployed, so you have a moral duty to give me your money.” Then he clicks back the hammer on the gun.

Does your neighbor have the right to put a gun to your head and steal your money because his children “need” an education? He has no such right. Nor does he, or any number of your neighbors, have the right to rob you by getting government to be their enforcer — by pressuring local governments to take your money through school taxes. Any school system that uses compulsory taxes is a system based on the notion that theft is moral if it’s for a good cause. No goal, not even educating children, justifies legalized theft.

It is only natural that all parents want the best education for their children, but do good intentions justify stealing from your neighbor? A mugger on the street who puts a knife to your throat and demands your money also has good intentions — he wants to make his life better with your money. One of the Ten Commandments says, “Thou shalt not steal.” It does not say, “Thou shalt not steal, except if you need tuition money to educate your child.” Since no one has a right to steal from his neighbor, no one, including children, has a “right” to an education.

Some might argue that I may be correct on this issue when it comes to adults, but surely we can’t punish innocent children for their parent’s failures? Just because parents are poor or unemployed, why should innocent children suffer and be denied an education? The answer to that question is one that many people find hard to accept, yet it is true — there are no guarantees in life, not for adults or for children. Good intentions to alleviate a problem do not justify hurting other people by stealing from them. Two wrongs do not make a right.

Moreover, if we agree that children have a right to an education because their parents are poor, then shouldn’t they also have a right to food, a bicycle, a nice house in the suburbs, and designer clothes? If poor kids (and all children) have an alleged right to an education, don’t they also have an alleged right to everything else that other kids have whose parents are well-off? Why not then say that anyone, poor, middle-class, or rich who has less money than his neighbor, has the “right” to steal from his neighbor? Where do we stop if some people can legally steal from others because they claim their kids need this or that?

The answer is, we don’t stop, and we haven’t stopped. That is why our country has turned into a devouring welfare state that is drowning in debt. When I use the word “welfare,” I don’t mean only for the poor. Rich, poor, and middle-class alike in America now claim the right to everything from corporate tax breaks and subsidies, to price supports for farmers, to Medicare, to rent subsidies for unwed mothers. When we let government steal money from taxpayers to give unearned benefits or subsidies to special-interest groups, we open up a Pandora’s box. We become a nation of thieves stealing from each other. Is this what we want America to become?

It is true that a free market does not and can not guarantee that all children have enough to eat or live in a comfortable house. Likewise, a free-market education system in which all parents have to pay for their children’s education obviously can’t guarantee a quality education for every child.

However, government-controlled public schools also can’t guarantee that every child gets a quality education. These failed schools can barely teach our children to read. Also, neither system can make guarantees because there are no guarantees in life, and because each child’s abilities, personality, and family background are so different that such guarantees are impossible. The real question, then, is not which system is perfect, but which system is more likely to give the vast majority of children a quality education that most parents could afford?

Public schools fail and betray millions of children, year after year. The only “right” the public-school system gives to school children is the right to suffer through a mind-numbing, third-rate education for twelve years.

In contrast, the free-market, while not perfect, gives us all the wondrous goods and services we buy every day, such as cars, fresh food, computers, refrigerators, and televisions. The superbly efficient and competitive free market gives us all these marvelous products at prices that most people can afford. Even the poorest American families today have a car, refrigerator, and sometimes two televisions in their homes. If we want to discover which system would give the vast majority of children a quality education at reasonable prices, I think we have the answer — the free market, hands down.

We therefore don’t need a failed public-school system to enforce an alleged right to an education, when there is no such right in the first place. Each parent should be responsible for paying for their own children’s education, just as they pay for their children’s food or clothing.

Finally, public-school apologists use this alleged right to an education to justify keeping the public-school dinosaur alive, in spite of these schools’ never-ending failure. Many public-school apologists who claim that children have a right to an education do so out of good intentions. They want to give all children a chance to get a decent education. But good intentions mean worse than nothing if they lead to dismal consequences. This alleged right to an education lets government bureaucrats have tyrannical control over our children’s minds and future.

The “right” to an education requires a massive government-controlled public-school system to enforce that right. But it is this same public-school system that cripples the education and lives of millions of children. So, ironically, the alleged right to an education is the worst thing we can offer our children.

Most low-income families don’t need government education handouts anymore in the form of allegedly “free” public schools. Parents today can buy quality, low-cost food in a competitive, free-market food industry full of grocery stores and supermarkets. In the same way, parents today can give their kids a quality education using low-cost Internet private schools and homeschooling.

Only when we reject the notion that all children have a “right” to an education will we get government out of the education business, permanently. Only a fiercely-competitive free-market education system can give kids the quality, low-cost education they deserve.

Joel Turtel is the author of two books — “Public Schools, Public Menace: How Public Schools Lie To Parents and Betray Our Children” and “The Welfare State: No Mercy For the Middle Class.” He is also a syndicated columnist and education policy analyst. Website: www.mykidsdeservebetter.com Email: lbooksusa@aol.com Article Copyrighted © 2006 by Joel Turtel. NOTE: You may post this Article on another website only if you set up a hyperlink to Joel TurtelÂ’s email address and website URL, www.mykidsdeservebetter.com

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Some Of The Factors To Consider When Buying A Sports Car


2011
11.08

Many people with a fat wallet and a large bank account find themselves pondering what they can spend all their money on. Answer is a brand new sports car that can run the quarter mile in under 11 sec that’s what I would spend my money on.

Here is how to look at buying a brand new sports car, the good ways and the bad ways.

People who are obsessed with sports cars can find every reason why to buy one and every reason why they shouldn’t own one. Some of these pros and cons are listed below.

Sports cars not only fit the lifestyles of the rich and the famous but with every person with a bit of money and wanting to spend it on a nice ride. Many of these sports cars come stock with horsepower going over 500 some with way more like Lamborghini’s or Porsche’s.

Small sporty convertibles will depreciate in value of the years and will get down to worth less then when you bought it. This really depends on the car; Corvettes from the sixties are worth way more now than they were then.

People who love spending all their money on these types of cars can choose between coupes or convertibles I personally like imports over anything I would take a Supra over a high end sports car today. That is a turbo Supra of course.

Most sports cars with an automatic transmission, like most other vehicles, will be worth more than the ones with a standard transmission. There are some exceptions with true sports cars and with sports cars that really need the ability to benefit from the torque that comes from using a manual transmission.

A lot of sports cars are prone to having problems, some of their parts are exotic and may be hard to find. When or if you buy a sports car never expect to get back what you paid for it. These cars are just another way to get around. Many become garage babies and are never run.

Of course driving an expensive sports car means paying a lot more for gas because they usually have the motor with a v-8 or v-12 which will get you about 15 miles to the gallon if you are lucky. This is also a good reason why more people should drive an import, good gas mileage plus high performance.

On the other side of the table though sports cars are already fast when you buy them, but like they say you can make a car as fast as your billfold is fat. That is the beauty of imports, over exotics. If you don’t have the money for a 300k factory vehicle you can always spend a tenth of that and have one probably just as fast with the right mechanic.

Gregg Hall is an author living with his beautiful wife and family in Navarre Beach, Florida. Find more about drifting as well as car care products [http://www.waxyourauto.com] at [http://www.waxyourauto.com]

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High-Quality Inexpensive Hiking Boots – How To Choose And Where To Find Them


2011
11.08

This article describes where to look, what to look for, and how to choose day-hiking boots. Knowing where to look and what to look for, you can be sure to get the high-quality hiking boots you need without paying extra for features you don’t need.

Day-hiking boots range anywhere from $40.00 to $150.00. The high end of that range is beginning to cross into backpacking boots, but anything below that range is either an exceptionally good deal or an imitation hiking boot that will disappoint you badly.

So, let’s talk about the kinds of places to shop for hiking boots, features to look for, pitfalls to avoid, and techniques to make sure you have the right fit.

Where to Shop for Hiking Boots

If you have never done any serious hiking, you will want to buy your first serious hiking boots in a hands-on experience. I’m being honest here (habit of mine). Yes, it is in my interest to persuade you to buy your hiking boots through my Web site, but I won’t do that if it is not appropriate for you. Even aside from ethical considerations, it would be bad business for me to create a lot of dissatisfied customers telling their friends about their bad experience. No, I’m just being honest. I don’t want to take your money and leave you unhappy. Buy your first pair of hiking boots at a brick-and-mortar store where you can handle the boots and try them for proper fit. Then, when you have enough experience to know what you want in your second pair of hiking boots (or third, or …), you can take advantage of the lower prices available on the Web.

When shopping for hiking boots, look for an outdoor equipment store rather than a shoe store. The sales clerks in a general shoe store are not likely to know the difference between real hiking boots and fashion imitations of hiking boots. You might pay more money at an outdoor equipment store, but you will realize the savings out on the trail.

Once you’re in the store, ask about some of the things you read in this article. If the sales clerk doesn’t know what a scree collar is or why soft outer soles are better than hard, look for another sales clerk, or another store.

If you are ready to buy your hiking boots on the Web, you can take advantage of the best of both worlds. You can buy from a high-volume store that has the best prices, but first get your advice, recommendations, and reviews from affiliated Web sites that specialize in hiking equipment.

Wherever you choose to buy your hiking boots, make sure there is a reliable, knowledgeable person in the loop somewhere. If the sales clerk or Web site seems too eager about making the sale and not interested enough in discussing and comparing features, you should look somewhere else before you make a final decision.

Especially when you are shopping the Web sites, you may need to pay attention to brands. Certain brands have a well-deserved reputation for good quality, and you should not ignore that. On the other hand, some brands have an overblown reputation that often has more to do with fashion than with genuine quality. The only way to know the difference, and to find the quality you need without paying for fashion that you don’t care about, is to talk to those who know the difference and to read reviews from people who have actually used the hiking boots in the field.

Features to Look For in Day-Hiking Boots

Here is what you need to look for:

* Deep tread in a soft sole for traction.

* Appropriate height (just above the ankle).

* Soft, wide, thick scree collar (the padding around the top that keeps pebbles out without chafing your Achilles tendon).

* Fiberglass shank. Steel is okay, but fiberglass is better in day-hiking boots because it’s lighter. Full-length is preferred, but shorter shanks may be acceptable if you are planning more moderate hiking.

* Tongue attached at least up to the top of the foot, or higher if you plan on crossing streams frequently.

* Crampon attachments (good, but not essential, unless you do a lot of hiking in icy conditions).

* Hooks for the laces above the top of the foot.

* Choose eyelets, D-rings, or webbing for the lower lace attachment points as a matter of personal taste. My experience does not indicate any one to be better than the others for day-hiking boots.

* Good insulation and padding all around, firm on the bottom, with a tough but smooth lining.

* Double stitching on all visible seams.

* More leather and less fabric is better. Split leather is fine (and you’ll almost never find full-grain leather in a day-hiking boot), but not full suede.

* Fewer seams is better.

Most of these features are self-evident, but here are a few techniques for evaluating specific features.

* Tread should be at least two fifths of the total thickness of the sole.

* Measure the softness of the tread surface by pressing your thumbnail into it. You should be able to make a visible indentation that springs out in a second or so.

* Measure the stiffness of the shank by holding the heel in one hand and the toe in the other, and twisting the sole. You should not be able to twist it at all.

Common Pitfalls to Avoid in Hiking Boots

The biggest problem you’re likely to find in shopping for day-hiking boots is cheaply-made “imitation” hiking boots. They look like hiking boots, but they’re not built to stand up to trail conditions. They will not last long, and they will not give you the traction and water resistance you need.

You can tell an “imitation” hiking boot from the real thing by these characteristics:

* Mild tread, less than about two-fifths the thickness of the sole.

* Hard tread surface that you can barely indent with your fingernail.

* Non-attached tongue.

* Non-rigid sole that you can twist by hand.

* No scree collar. There may be patches of leather or a different color of fabric that look like a scree collar, but if it doesn’t have thick, soft padding around the top, it’s not a real hiking boot. It won’t keep the pebbles out, and it might chafe or constrict your Achilles tendon.

Fitting your Hiking Boots

You must fit your hiking boots with any orthopedic inserts, off-the-shelf insoles, and the hiking socks you intend to wear with them. A good rule of thumb is to start with one full size larger than your regular street shoes.

With all the inserts and insoles in place and your hiking socks on, but with no laces in the boot, put the boot on and push your foot all the way forward until your toes touch the front. You should have just enough room behind the heel to slide your finger all the way in.

Next, lace the boot up snugly and walk around. The boots will be stiff and uncomfortable because they’re not broken in, but they should not allow your foot to slide or rub.

Stand on a steep slope with your toes pointing down. (Use the fitting horse where you’re supposed to put your foot to lace the shoe while sitting. Go ahead and stand on it.) You should be able to wiggle your toes, and they should not touch the front of the boots.

If you bought the boots via the Web, do this fit-test as soon as you get them. Even if you think you know your size, boots from different manufacturers might fit differently. Check the size and fit immediately, and return them for a replacement if they don’t fit right.

Conclusion

If you are looking for your first pair of serious hiking boots, you must do your shopping in an outdoor equipment store where you can handle the boots and talk to knowledgeable sales staff. Only if you have some experience with day-hiking boots, take advantage of the bargains available on the Web.

Check for the features that identify a quality hiking boot, and avoid “fake” hiking boots.

Bring all the inserts and socks you will wear with your hiking boots, and check for a firm but comfortable fit with no rubbing or sliding.

Look for quality, and expect to pay for it, but don’t pay more than you have to for features that don’t contribute to the durability and comfort of your hiking boots.

Chuck Bonner is a lifelong hiker and amateur naturalist, and webmaster of http://www.HikingWithChuck.com For more information about hiking boots and other hiking equipment based on many years on the trail, visit [http://www.hikingwithchuck.com/Gear/HikingGear.htm]

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Hiking Boot Accessories – Hiking Socks, Insoles, Laces, And Crampons


2011
11.07

Before you go shopping for a pair of hiking boots, you must have some of the accessories first. This article will tell you what you need to know about hiking socks and liners for your hiking boots so you’re sure to get the right fit. It will also discuss a few other accessories that you might need to think about before you choose.

In this article, we will mainly talk about the accessories themselves, but you should keep in mind that many of these accessories will become involved in your choice of hiking boots. This is especially true when it comes to picking the right size. Your hiking boots must fit not only your feet, but the socks and insoles and any custom inserts you use.

So, let’s talk about hiking socks, insoles, laces, and crampons, and how these affect your choice of hiking boots.

Hiking Socks

There are at least two general types of hiking socks, and if you are planning any serious hiking, you will need both:

1. Cushioning and insulation socks.

2. Liner socks.

You may do without the liners on shorter hikes, including most day-hikes. I wear liners only on multi-day backpacking hikes.

Whatever socks you end up choosing, choose them first, and wear them when you go shopping for hiking boots. Your hiking boots must fit you properly with the socks on. And in colder weather, you might need two pairs of cushioning and insulation socks, so make sure your boots can accommodate them.

Both types of socks must be made of a wicking material that will draw moisture away from your skin. Wool is the only good natural wicking material that wears reasonably well. (Silk works also for liner socks, but it doesn’t last long.) Cotton just absorbs moisture and holds it, without wicking it away. Some compositions of polypropylene and nylon can be effective wicking materials for those who may be allergic to wool.

The liner socks go next to your skin. They must be very smooth. This is where you can use silk or sheer nylon if you are prepared to replace the socks every other hike. Or you can use a very fine-knit wool sock. Polypropylene socks, even if they appear to be very smooth and fine, are usually too rough for hiking liners.

Cushioning and insulation socks, which you need even for moderate hiking, must be thick enough to keep your feet warm and to cushion the impact of heavy walking. They don’t have to be soft, unless you are doing without the liner socks. Wool is best, unless you are allergic to it, in which case you can use polypropylene or heavier nylon socks (or a blend of these synthetics).

Whatever you choose, and whatever type of hiking you plan to do, test your socks on something less strenuous first. Try them on a shorter hike, or in your everyday walking, and check for hot spots. If your socks create hot spots on your feet after a few miles of walking, they will cause blisters on a longer hike. You want to learn this close to home, and not out in the middle of the wilderness. Even if you’re an experienced hiker, if you are trying a new type of sock, try it on short walks before you commit to it on a long hike.

Insoles and Orthopedic Inserts

Cushioned insoles can make a world of difference in your hiking comfort. Even though hiking boots have built-in cushioning, it is a good idea to use removable insoles that you can replace periodically. That way, if you wear through them, you can simply get a new pair instead of having to repair your hiking boots.

There is a bewildering array of removable insoles out there. I’m not going to recommend any particular type, as this is mostly a matter of personal preference. I will only recommend two things:

1. Try them on short hikes or in your everyday walking before you set out on a long hike. If you don’t like them, try a different type.

2. Bring them with you when you go shopping for your hiking boots. Your boots must fit properly with the insoles in place, so choose a size of hiking boot that fits your feet, socks, and insoles together.

If you wear any orthopedic inserts in your shoes, bring them with you when you go shopping for hiking boots. Again, your hiking boots must fit everything that you’re going to put inside them.

Laces for Hiking Boots

Laces are one accessory for your hiking boots that you can think about afterward. The laces that come with your hiking boots are probably fine. However, you will want to carry an extra set of laces on a long hike, in case one breaks. You may even want to replace your laces before they break, if you find some reason to dislike the ones that came with your boots.

Generally, boot laces are braided nylon or similar synthetics. You can get rawhide boot laces, but these are problematic. Yes, they may last longer than braided nylon, but that might just mean that you have to put up with the problems they cause for that much longer. Problems with rawhide boot laces are:

* They tend to stretch with changes in humidity, or even with the passage of time. This requires frequent adjustment.

* Solid rawhide can have sharp edges which can cut your hands as you adjust or tie them. This is less true for braided rawhide or rawhide covered in a braided nylon shell.

Look for laces with a round cross-section. Flat laces may look stylish on your boots, but they tend to break more easily than round ones.

Crampons

Crampons are accessories you can attach to your hiking boots for traction on ice and snow. They are usually metal spikes, sometimes plastic, in a frame that fits under the sole of your hiking boots, attached by adjustable straps or clamps.

There are heavy-duty crampons designed for ice climbing. These are beyond the scope of this article. Just be aware that they exist, and when you see the giant bear-trap spikes sticking out of the bottom and front of the crampons, move along and choose a less aggressive pair.

Light crampons can attach to your hiking boots even if your hiking boots do not have purpose-made crampon attachment points. Just make sure your hiking boots have a distinct lip at the top of the sole that the crampons can attach to.

There are traction accessories designed for walking on icy pavement, but these are not appropriate for hiking. They simply can not stand up to the stress of walking on a steep slope, and they can not stand up to much wear. Make sure you choose a pair of crampons that are purpose-made for hiking.

Conventional crampons extend the full length of your hiking boots. You can also find crampons that fit only into the instep and do not extend to the heel or toe. I have used these, and they work better than you might expect. You have to remember not to walk on your toes when you cross icy patches, but I found that this comes pretty naturally anyway. Your natural reaction to an icy slope is to walk with your feet sideways to the slope and dig in with the edges of your boots, and that’s where the spikes of these half-length crampons are. Works beautifully.

Conclusion

The main thing to remember about accessories for your hiking boots is to think about them first. Choose your socks and insoles first, and bring them and any orthopedic inserts you need with you when you shop for hiking boots so you can be sure to get the right fit. Think about whether you will need crampons, and make sure your hiking boots can accommodate them.

Chuck Bonner is a lifelong hiker and amateur naturalist, and webmaster of http://www.HikingWithChuck.com For more information about hiking boots and other hiking equipment based on many years on the trail, visit [http://www.hikingwithchuck.com/Gear/HikingGear.htm]

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Yes! You Can be a Food Gourmet and a Skilled Gourmet Cook Too


2011
11.06

Yes, even you can cook up wonderful meals and impress your loved ones!

Ever thought that gourmet cooking is not for you, or that you do not cook well? Then it’s time to totally change your mindset from today…

Anyone and everyone can easily pick up cooking skills; younger or older, ladies and even the guys. It doesn’t matter what your skill level is today; you can do much better and make great dishes like the chefs at your favorite restaurants. And what’s more, the meals you cook will be done to perfection – your kind of perfection. And you know what the best part is? You already have the most important ingredient… you know what great food is!

Let’s show you the way… experimental cooking is putting YOU in charge – you’re the boss of the kitchen! You choose the ingredients you like and whip up meals to suit your specific tastes. Forget about strictly following recipes that are complicated… that requires you to buy special ingredients you will only use once then store till they expire… that calls for you to measure out precise amounts of each ingredient. All that is required is for you to have fun and experiment with blending ingredients that you like. Let your imagination rule… pick the items and create your masterpiece; from types of meats and vegetables, to how they are cooked, to what beautiful arrangement on your dinner plate. experimental cooking is also about you and the people you are preparing a meal for. You know that each person has their unique preferences, so experimental cooking is about helping you fulfill those preferences. Sounds complicated, you may think? But actually, it is rather simple; especially after you develop the basics that will forever change your mindset on cooking and open up a whole new dimension of creativity you never knew you already had within yourself.

Now let us share with you the little secrets of experimental cooking… the A, B, Cs if you will…

A. INGREDIENTS – The first key is for you to build on your knowledge of ingredients, as they are the basic building blocks for a good meal. You already know of many ingredients, now go and take a closer look; experience each ingredient individually and experiment with it. Everything edible can be an ingredient in your creation, so you need to know and understand each ingredient; from how it looks and tastes, to its texture, to how it behaves when cooked in different ways, to which other ingredients it is compatible with, to what happens if you add more or less of it to your food, etc. Since individuals experience things differently, you are your own expert; find out what you like and what you can do without. As you have your meals each day, take the opportunity to study the ingredients. Involve your family & friends and make it fun as you experience & experiment. At restaurants, and when you travel, question the chefs if you have a chance and gain perspectives into new ingredients you come across. For the computer savvy, you can also surf the web and quickly gain insight; there is tons of information online. Try typing the ingredient you’re interested in on your favorite search engine and discover a wealth of knowledge at your fingertips. As you get to know about more ingredients and become more aware of the characteristics of each ingredient, you will be able to expertly combine them to expand the number of new dishes in your cooking repertoire. There are endless combinations, so keep experimenting; you will discover many winners to surprise your guests. Have fun building up your own database of ingredients.

B. QUALITY – When you begin with great quality ingredients, you are certain to produce top quality meals; if you start with poor quality ingredients, it won’t come as a surprise that the results will naturally be disappointing. Quality can easily be determined when you use all your senses… Use your sense of Sight to look carefully at the ingredients. Check the color to see if it is bright or dull, consistent or has blemishes. Is the shape evenly symmetrical or distorted. Look also at the texture of the items. Your sense of Sight is the first sense that you will usually use when checking anything; and it is a powerful tool in determining the Quality of any ingredient. Practice and see if you can tell what the Quality of an item is, just by looking at it. You will quickly be able to use your Sight to initially screen ingredients to determine if they are worth a closer inspection or to move on. Use your sense of Hearing to listen to the tone when gently tapping or shaking an item. Does it sound hollow or solid, is there a rattling sound? Hearing is not frequently used, but can be helpful in a closer inspection of certain fruits, nuts and vegetables. Use your sense of Smell to sniff out fragrant fruits and the aroma of fresh herbs. You can also detect items to avoid when they emit off smelling odors. Train up your nose and your sense of Smell will come in handy when you search for Quality foods. If you have the opportunity, sample the items before making your decision. Besides checking that the Taste is what it should be, also observe the texture or feel it has in your mouth, when you chew on it, and when it slides down your throat. This is also your chance to confirm that you really like the Taste of the ingredient before buying. Your sense of Taste will be your most important tool when it comes to blending ingredients. With a well developed sense of Taste, you will be able to determine what ingredients, and in what quantities, will go well together. Finally is your sense of Touch. Go ahead, pick up and handle the ingredients you are inspecting. How does it feel in your hands? Is it heavy or light, hard or soft, firm or supple, smooth or rough, dry or moist? You can tell a good deal about the Quality of an ingredient by how it feels; you just need a little practice to fine tune and “get the feel” of things. Practice using all your senses to fully examine ingredients and learn how to pick Top Quality items for your specific needs. It is now time for you to exercise your senses whenever you go shopping for food. Have a good time tuning up your skills in search of Quality at the markets and stores.

C. DESIGNING – Now comes the fun part of Designing your meals. The first consideration is who you are cooking for and what are their likes and dislikes. Do take some time to ask your family, friends, or guests about their eating preferences, especially if they require special diets for health reasons, or are allergic to certain foods. From this mini survey, you can plan a meal that will delight everyone.

You can now begin to narrow down your choices; consider if you want to do appetizers and/or soup, what are the best choice for your main courses, and if you wish to make desert? Design a simple meal or an elaborate feast: it’s all up to you. Use your knowledge of ingredients to decide on what blend of ingredients will achieve the unique flavors you want. Also consider how the ingredients will look together, and how you can make your dishes visually appealing. At the beginning, you may feel more comfortable sticking to traditional flavors and cooking tried and tested recipes. But as you gain confidence after experimenting with traditional foods by altering their taste to suit your preferences better, then its time to be bold and creative; try to design something totally new once in a while. It is also fairly easy for you to design meals to take into account differing preferences among your guests; simply separate your ingredients and add or withhold them into individual portions of your dishes. In the Design phase, you may wish to consider the cooking style as well, since the way food is cooked will make a difference in the outcome in terms of taste and texture.

D. COOKING STYLES – Mastering many Cooking Styles is another way to increase the diversity of your meals. Brush up on your cooking skills by not only practicing the various Styles of Cooking, but also by paying close attention to the details of the cooking process, what each Cooking Style does to your food and the resulting appearance, taste & texture. experiment with variations to the standard method (different temperature, time, sequence, combinations, etc.) and observe the results. Learn new Styles as you come across them, and also try your hand at inventing new ways to cook. There are many methods of cooking your food; some more conventional like Baking, Barbecuing, Braising, Roasting, Stewing and Steaming. Some are more exotic like cooking meat on a slab of hot stone. So do try out the various cooking styles on your favorite foods and discover which are to your liking. Also experiment with combinations; for example you can first steam a lobster, then cut it open and put some cheese in before grilling for a short while to melt and brown the cheese sauce. Think of new ways to cook, after all its just applying heat to food. You can also broaden your knowledge and skills by observing how people of various lands cook their meals in special ways when you travel.

E. PRESENTATION – The final element is how you serve up the feast that you have prepared. Food Presentation is the art of making your meals visually appealing. Since the objective is to serve up something that will look good, experiment with what you think will look nice when assembled together. If you want to keep it simple, just focus on the dish and what is to be put on it. If you want to pull out all the stops, then go with a theme of your choice and dress up everything, including the dining room. Let’s run through some ideas to move you along… On the simple end of the scale, all you need to do is select a suitable bowl or plate and arrange your food on it, then add something to garnish. The easiest is to place all your food onto serving plates for your guest to help themselves. Select large enough bowls and plates, matching if desired, that can hold the amount of food you have prepared. You can fill a serving bowl with soup and sprinkle some chopped spring onions on top to garnish. Fish can be served on an oval plate, or one of those fish shaped dishes, and you can arrange some lettuce and round slices of lemon to decorate. For prawns, try arranging them in a circle on a round plate, and put sauce for dipping right in the center. You can be more creative when you do individual servings. For the main course, you can simply lay out the meat, potatoes and vegetables on different sectors of the plate in a traditional manner; just remember to include ingredients with nice colors and arrange them in your chosen pattern. Try using carrots or tomatoes to add bright orange or red to your dish. Use corn, pasta or potatoes for a dose of yellow. How about tri-color pasta to really mix up the colors? Appetizers and deserts are my favorites as you can really let your imagination go… and come up with really delightful creations. Try using a Burgundy wine glass for your shrimp cocktail, then plant a stick of celery with the leafy end up on one side and garnish the lip of the glass with a circular slice of lemon for a lovely presentation of this favorite appetizer. Now go forth and create visual masterpieces to serve your guests; they will surely be astonished at your work of art. If you need more ideas, you can always look at how the chefs at your local restaurants present their dishes, or you can flip through food magazines, or surf the internet for tons of ideas to get you on your way.

Now that you know the Secrets to experimental cooking, all you need to do is to start cooking; after all, as the saying goes… “Practice Makes Perfect”.

The author is a self taught Xperimental Chef. To learn more, please visit http://thexchef.blogspot.com/

This article may be distributed provided no alterations are made and this bio and copyright clause is attached.

© 2006-2011 The Xperimental Chef http://thexchef.blogspot.com/

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Choosing the Right Pet Cremation Option


2011
11.05

Where will you go when the time comes to say good-bye to your beloved pet? Most people will go to their trusted Pet Care Provider who will hopefully usher them through this crossroads of emotion and decision making with love, support and dignity.

Surprisingly, this is not often the case. Recently when I picked up my dogs at the grooming salon, the dear lady shared with me that when she lost her most recent dog, her husband handled all of the decision making as she was just too emotional. After spending nearly $350.00, it turned out that he had mistakenly ordered a mass cremation and therefore this couple never did receive the ashes of their beloved pet. He was told by his Pet Care Provider “don’t worry, we will take care of everything; this is the option most people choose…” He had assumed, incorrectly, that he would be receiving his pets ashes in return.

While pet cemeteries have been available in many communities, burial within a pet cemetery can be a very expensive option. Many may still choose to bury their pet in their back forty but most communities now have very strict health department zoning restrictions on pet burial. Today families have become more mobile and may desire the ability to take their family pet’s remains with them when they re-locate or they may feel more comfortable with a visible, tangible memorial for their beloved pet. All are reasons that more and more pet owners are choosing cremation and as many as 70 percent of those owners are choosing to receive their pets ashes after the cremation. Just 10 years ago only 25 percent chose this option to receive the ashes back after cremation.

Knowing that cremation is your choice is not the last step in this decision. Many pet owners do not realize, as my poor dog groomer did not, that there are many options for the pet cremation and deconstructing these options and the variety of terms in use for these options is the most important aspect of the pet cremation choice. Pet cremation usually falls within three main categories; mass cremation, individual cremation and private cremation.

Mass or Communal Cremation – As the name implies this is the cremation of many animals at one time, within a single cremation session. Pet cremators (the actual pet cremation equipment) can be very large with a capacity of several hundred to thousands of pounds of weight. The animals included in a mass cremation may come from a variety of clinics, animal shelters, etc and when the cremation session is completed the ashes are gathered and taken away to be disposed of by the crematory company, generally in their private landfill. This option should be the least expensive option for the pet owner and is a sanitary and decent way to dispose of the pet if retaining the ashes is not desired.

Individual Cremation – The individual cremation is a source of much confusion for pet owners and often uninformed Pet Care Provider staff. Individual cremation simply means that the ashes that are returned to the pet owner are intended to be only the ashes of their beloved pet. Generally with an individual pet cremation, the animal is tagged with a metal tag and placed within their own individual metal tray within the cremator. Depending upon the volume of the particular cremator there can be many animals within one session, however the animals are identified and separated. When the session is complete, the ashes within each individual tray are processed, bagged, and readied to be shipped back to the Pet Care Provider or individual pet owner depending on the circumstance of its arrival to the crematory. Many pet owners believe that an individual cremation means that their pet was cremated in a single session by itself and then given back to them as a guarantee that these ashes are their pets ashes alone. The only way to make absolutely sure that is the case is with the following option and that is the Private or Witnessed Private Cremation.

Private Cremation and Witnessed Private Cremation – A private cremation provides the option for the pet to be cremated entirely alone within the cremation chamber or cremator ensuring that there are no other ashes mixed in with the singular pets ashes. Often there will be a tag with identifying numbers that will be placed on the pet and will go through the crematory process with him and returned with the obvious characteristics of the crematory process on the tag as an extra assurance. Many times the crematorium facilities will allow for a special blanket or toy to accompany the pet and some crematoriums now have waiting room facilities or facilities that allow for a witnessed private cremation.

Many of these Pet Funeral Homes even offer wonderful viewing areas and are set up to conduct private memorial services as well. Private cremations are becoming more popular as pet funeral homes are beginning to pop up across our landscape. Pet funeral homes often can arrange for pick up of the pet at the private home or Veterinarian facility as well. While all Pet Funeral Homes will make arrangements with the individual pet owner, sixty five percent of private cremations are from Veterinary affiliates so it is important to discuss with your Veterinarian what crematory company he has an affiliation with and/or does he have a pet funeral home that he would recommend if what you require is the absolute assurance that a Private Cremation will take place.

Pet Cremation costs vary greatly and are largely dependent upon the above choices and whether the arrangements are scheduled through an intermediate source such as the Pet Care Provider. Mass or Communal Cremation generally costs from $75.00 – $125.00, Individual Cremation can cost $100.00 – $200.00 and Private and Witnessed Private Cremations can cost as high as $500.00 or more depending upon whether the family chooses private pick up, private viewing and/or a memorial service. Many Pet Funeral Homes are offering preplanning and prepayment options to the pet community just as are offered in the human funeral business.

While it is a difficult subject to contemplate for every pet owner, it is best to be prepared with as much knowledge as possible before the time comes. Take the time to discuss your crematory options with your Pet Care Provider or with your local pet funeral home or crematory, make sure that you are clear on what it is they provide, have them describe their processes in detail and make sure that those services meet your expectations.

Patricia L. Moore is the owner and founder of Soft-Hearted Products LLC, the developer of the Soft-Hearted Pillow Pet Urn. When Patricia lost her 15 year old companion dog, Samantha, she chose cremation as her option. Her family has always been mobile and it was important to her to have a visible reminder of Samantha as well as a place to keep her near. Patricia soon realized that a traditional cold, hard urn to be kept upon a shelf was not an appropriate placement or tribute to Samantha; a dog who had never left her side for 15 years. Patricia created the Soft-Hearted Pillow Pet Urn.

A soft, huggable, beautifully designed pillow which encloses a pet’s cremated remains in a safe, secure included pouch that is tucked discreetly deep inside the pillow. The Soft-Hearted Pillow Pet Urn is made from a choice of beautiful, soft fabrics with decorator trim and can be customized with a pet’s name, important dates etc. The pillows are functional as a safe, secure receptacle for a pet’s ashes yet are discreet enough for any setting.

Soft-Hearted Products LLC offers the Soft-Hearted Pillow Pet Urn in the finest pet boutiques and on their website at http://www.soft-hearted.com where pet owners can view the pillow options, read customer testimonials and find other valuable pet loss resource information.

Soft-Hearted Products LLC
2338 Immokalee Road, Suite 145
Naples, Florida 34110
888 450 4548
information@soft-hearted.com
http://www.soft-hearted.com

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The Business of College Recruiting


2011
11.03

College recruiting is all about finding the best players for college programs. Recruiting at the major college level is big-time business in order to recruit big-time players. The game of college recruiting is cut-throat; it’s kill or be killed when you’re out there looking for the best talent for your college program. College athletics is mostly about winning, making money and turning your program into a success right now. The days of taking three to five years to build a successful program are long gone.

To be a success at any sport at the major college level you have to reach your conference tournament then go beyond the tournament to compete for a national championship. Anything less, especially if you’re a college coach. Chances are you will be fired.

College sports is big business; from the games on TV to the fans who see the teams play in person, big money is being made and the better your college program does in a tournament or ball games means more money for your college or university.

The pressure to achieve that goal year in and year out is extremely difficult and only the most successful coaches, with a strong background in recruiting, will succeed. Keep in mind, to reach the level of the major college coach you already know strategy, you already know how to coach and motivate players and do all the things that it takes to prepare your team for each and every day, but if you do not have the best players for your program to succeed then you will struggle.

Recruiting is such a sophisticated process that it requires a coach to handle those responsibilities full time.

How has college sports become big business? The answer to that question is television, the NCAA tournament and the BCS Bowl championship series. Fans at the stadiums want to see their favorite college team compete which generates millions of dollars in revenue, merchandise is sold, television rights are sold and the larger college programs get that money which could stretch from $40 to $50 million per year in revenue.

College athletics is an extremely powerful presence in American culture. Millions of people watch the games, millions of people read about their favorite team, and millions more spend money on their favorite teams’ merchandise. With all of that being said, you must produce a successful college program every year and the only way to do that is to recruit top caliber players by any means necessary.

The best college coaches who can recruit and win successfully are paid millions of dollars. Many coaches make more money than the President of the United States. Coaches who receive these large salaries are there for one reason: to win games. Because of the pressure to win each and every year, there are some college programs that will cheat to secure the top high school talent in America. The rules that govern college programs, set forth by the NCAA, are as big as a phonebook. There are so many rules and regulations that govern college programs and the college recruiting process that it can be a challenge to stay within the guidelines of the NCAA rulebook.

Many college programs have what is called a “compliance department” that oversees the athletic programs to ensure that the rules are being followed. Cheating at college recruiting happens almost every day. Many college coaches, in order to succeed, feel they have to go outside the rule book in order to recruit players.

With that type of pressure placed on college coaches to win many turn to cheating. Cheating is almost a way of life in the world of college recruiting because in order to achieve some level of success, rules will be broken.

College coaches, it seems to me, do not fear getting caught. So what if they lose a scholarship or two or have to vacate ballgames that they won. Cheating to recruit players will never stop. Nobody cares about the players it seems. When a college program only cares if that player can help that program win ball games, then that college program will do almost anything to recruit a potential superstar athlete and do whatever necessary to keep that college athlete eligible.

What does this say about the college coach who only cares if you can play a game and is willing to manipulate the rules of recruiting to recruit you to their program? There are many college student athletes who, for the most part, have no business ever being admitted to college in the first place, but because they can play a sport better than many others, that college’s athletic department is willing to bend the rules to get that superstar athlete admitted into their college program.

There was a time when a college coach would recruit high school student athletes, build their programs, graduate their players and continue to build a successful program.

That does not happen anymore. College programs are built for the ‘right now’ and recruiting is a key factor in reaching major success. College coaches from major college programs have the resources to recruit players from all over the country. These coaches, with their deep recruiting pockets, will travel coast-to-coast in search of talent. Because of the recruiting calendar set by the NCAA, the actual days to evaluate and recruit players is limited. College coaches are using whatever resources are available to them to recruit players.

Football camps is a good resource to evaluate and recruit players and the AAU for basketball is another good resource that is used to recruit players but all of these resources can be manipulated by paying off club coaches and making promises to persuade a high school athlete to sign to their college program.

It seems that everyone is looking to make money off high school student athletes who possess superior skills to compete at the major college level. “Street Agent” is a term sometimes used to direct a high school basketball player to a college program. That so-called agent is the middleman who can facilitate the recruiting process outside of the rules to help secure recruits to a college program.

Who is to blame for how out of control the college recruiting process has gotten? To answer that question, you really have to go back 50-60 years, when top recruits were getting special gifts or cash to play ball at a certain college.

Even as far back as the 1950′s and 60′s, illegal recruiting has gone on. Is it the parent’s fault because they’ve got to have some inkling as to what’s going on and maybe they accepted it as part of the process of getting their son or daughter into a major college program. What responsibility does the high school coach have? Do they also turn a blind eye to what’s going on with their superstar player? There is no doubt that the high school coach is aware of the illegal recruiting. What role does the club coach play in the illegal recruiting? They have just as much access to players as anyone and can influence players to certain programs if the price is right.

The ultimate goal, when it comes to recruiting, is to bring in the best possible players for your program and the athletes understand that there is value to obtain their services. These high school athletes understand how coveted they are by college programs that look to them to turn their program into winners. The student athletes who have been hyped up during their high school athletic careers understand that most college programs may have to do something extra to secure their recruitment to that program.

An illegal recruiting allegation is the term associated with recruiting by underhanded practices by some college coaches. Many times, these allegations surface during a college coaches time associated with that program and sometimes nothing is done, in terms of investigation, until after that coach has moved on to another program. Big-time college coaches these days do not stay in one place very long.

Generally, coaches may stay two or three recruiting classes build their programs into a winner, make a lot of money and move on to bigger paying coaching jobs, before any sanctions are placed on them while still with that program. Gone are the days where a coach will remain at a program for his entire career. The pressure to win makes coaches move to different jobs all the time. Win or lose, the coaching carousel never stops.

If a college program is found guilty of a recruiting allegation, only the program suffers by loss of scholarships or they may have to vacate victories. But how many times has a college coach been fined lost some of the money they make for recruiting wrong-doing? The answer is never! Sure there have been college coaches who have been fired because of recruiting wrong-doings, but somehow these coaches continue to get coaching jobs at other major college programs.

Summer recruiting, as it applies to AAU or club basketball, is big business this time of the year because college programs can scout and evaluate potential recruits.

Club basketball in some ways is taking over high school basketball in terms of recruiting. During the summer club season, there are many tournaments around the country where college programs can see the best of the best high school talent show their skills.

This, too, has become corrupt. Many AAU club coaches earn six-figure salaries from shoe companies and donations and they do not have to disclose this information. In many people’s opinion, there is too much power and influence over high school athletes than what the high school coaches have. There is a tug of war between club coaches and high school coaches over the control of the high school student athletes but who reaps the benefits? The college coaches!

For every bad story you read about college recruiting there are good stories; there are stories about the hidden talent that was discovered. While the stories about players walking on to a major college program and turning out to be outstanding student athletes is few.

There are many rules in place to protect the high school student athletes from over-zealous recruiters. But, like many things in this world, rules are made to be broken and are often broken in the big-time world of college recruiting.

Woods Recruiting: specializing in helping high school student athletes get recruited for college.

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Information on Extreme Cat Urine Cleaners, Removers and How to Clean Cat Urine


2011
11.01

Cat toilet training in easy steps:

Toilet training your cat is an easier task than you might think. Several techniques can be used for training your cat to use the toilet, and you can even buy products that will assist you in toilet training a cat.

The advantages of cat toilet training:

Teaching your cat to use the toilet can hold several advantages for any cat owner. The biggest advantage of having your cat use a toilet is that eliminates most of the disadvantages that using cat litter holds. Cat litter is expensive. After toilet training your cat, you won’t ever need to buy cat litter again. Cat litter boxes needs to be cleaned regularly or they will become smelly. With cat toilet training, the water in the toilet masks most of the offending smell and all you need to do is flush regularly – much simpler and easier than cleaning a litter box. Going away for weekends or holidays also becomes easier for your neighbor – instead of asking someone to clean out the litter box, all they need to do is flush your toilet once in a while (when they come around to water your plants and feed your cat).

How to toilet train a cat (do it yourself):

Toilet training your cat depends entirely on the cat’s personality. Toilet training sociable cats that love being praised make the training task much easier. You might want to adapt the toilet training technique described below to fit your cat’s personality. Training your cat to use the toilet can take anything between 2 weeks up to 3 months, depending on the individual cat’s personality.

Cat toilet training basically consists of a simple procedure: gradually moving your cat’s litter box closer and closer to the toilet, finally placing a bowl with cat litter inside the toilet, and removing it altogether when your cat is comfortable and used to it. Toilet training a cat is a gradual, step-by-step process, consisting of making small changes to the location of the litter box and only continuing to the next step when your cat is entirely comfortable with its current situation. You might have to wait anything between 2 days or 3 weeks before moving on a next step in cat toilet training. You might even have to go back a step once or twice when it turns out that your cat wasn’t ready to move on to the next toilet training step. Beware – cat toilet training takes a lot of patience!

Cat toilet training steps:

1. Start gradually moving your cat’s litter box nearer to the toilet until finally it should be next to the toilet. Ensure that your cat is always comfortable and sure of its litter box’s location.

2. Now start elevating the cat’s litter box. Put something non-slippery like newspapers or cardboard underneath the litter box. A normal rate to increase the height of the litter box would be about 5cm a day, but be very attentive to signs that your cat is not comfortable with the current height, and adjust the pace of raising the litter box accordingly. The cat litter box should be raised until it is at a level height with the toilet bowl. Throughout this process it is very important to keep the toilet lid open and the seat down, because your cat will get used to it and might even start climbing on the toilet seat in order to reach its litter box.

3. Move the litter box to rest on the open toilet seat. Keep it there until your cat seems comfortable with this arrangement.

4. Buy a metal bowl or tray that will fit snugly inside the toilet bowl. It would be advisable for the metal bowl to have small draining holes. Fill the bowl with cat litter (preferably the flushable type). Now remove your cat’s litter box entirely. If you have reached this step successfully you are very close to having a toilet trained cat!

5. While your cat is using the metal bowl inside the toilet, be attentive to where its paws are. The goal is teaching him to squat with all four paws on the toilet seat rim. You can move the cat while it is using the toilet and praise it (or reward it) when it is sitting in the correct position. Normally the cat will first sit entirely inside the metal bowl, then with front paws on the toilet seat, and finally it should sit with all four paws on the toilet.

6. Start using less and less cat litter. This can get smelly, so be sure to clean the bowl after every time your cat uses it. Cats scratch in sand or cat litter to cover up the smell (this is out of instinct), so if the bowl becomes too smelly your cat won’t be comfortable using it (and you probably wouldn’t be comfortable with using your toilet either). Using flushable cat litter makes cleaning the bowl very easy – just throw out the contents in the toilet and flush down, rinse out the bowl, refill with correct amount of cat litter and replace. A handy tip is to place newspaper on the floor around the toilet to help keep the room clean should your cat scratch in the cat litter. Decrease the amount of cat litter in a pace that your cat feels comfortable with.

7. When you basically don’t use any cat litter inside the bowl anymore, start gradually filling the bowl with water. The water will also help mask the smell so your cat will be more comfortable using the toilet. Be attentive to your cat’s behavior through this whole process – if your cat stops using the bowl inside the toilet, you may be moving on too fast and might need to go back a couple of steps.

8. When the water level in the bowl has reached about 4cm and your cat has no problem using it, it is time to remove the bowl entirely. Your cat should now be toilet trained. Remember to always leave the toilet seat up and flush regularly!

Products to assist you in toilet training your cat:

There are several cat toilet training kits available on the market. They basically consist of a tray that fits inside the toilet, and with a hole in the middle that you can gradually make bigger. When choosing a cat toilet training kit, ensure that you buy quality. The cat training kit should not be flimsy and should be able to support your cat’s weight even when the hole becomes large. Be aware of cheap, flimsy products you buy at toy stores or pet stores, because if your cat falls in, it might loose interest in toilet training completely.

The disadvantages in toilet training your cat:

Not everyone agrees that cat toilet training is such a great idea. They argue that it is unnatural for a cat to use a toilet, as it goes against their natural instincts to cover up their smell. Toilet seats can also be slippery and there might be the risk of your cat injuring itself. Even if your cat doesn’t fall in at all, he may become anxious whenever he uses the toilet and going to the toilet can become an unpleasant task.

A litter box also has the health benefit in that you can easier monitor your cat’s urine for signs of infections or sickness.

Moving locations will also be harder for the cat, because a litter box can be moved easily but the cat will first need to get used to using the new toilet. With some cats this is no problem and they can become comfortable with the new toilet very fast, while other cats might be less adaptable.

Things to remember when toilet training a cat:

The most important thing to remember is that the toilet training should be done gradually. Be very patient and never rush to the next step until you are sure that you cat is completely comfortable with the current setup.

Make using the toilet as easy as you can for the cat. Always remember to keep the toilet seat up and the bathroom door open. When you have guests, ensure that they also know about considering your cat. Flush the toilet regularly as cats do not like using smelly toilets.

Claudine du Plessis is a cat-lover and webmaster of http://www.cat-urine.net

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